The Moon over Kubu Island

Kubu Island is a granite outcrop in the middle of the Makgadikgadi Pans.  It’s not always easy to access, but right now the Pans are completely dry so you can drive anywhere.  There is a brand new campsite here, so visitors can now enjoy showers and flushing toilets.  A big step up from the primitive facilities at the old campsite.  Well done Mmatshumo Village !

Graeme

October 2024

Street Food.

The winter months are time to get the bicycle out and explore.  And one of the pleasures of cycling is that you can easily smell the street food cooking as you go by.

Here is a selection of some interesting street delicacies

Clockwise from the plate below the helmet ….

Braised chicken feet

Chicken intestines garnished with chilli, served with sorghum porridge and cooked bean leaves

Watermelon slices

Cooked ‘mophane worm’ caterpillars

Diced butternut

The drinks are sorghum beer (brown) and mageu, a kind of lightly fermented maize flour.

Graeme

July 2024

Elephants alongside the A3

It’s the end of the rainy season.  There wasn’t much rain this year,  and water is already scarce in the Nxai Pan and Makgadikgadi Pans National Parks.  The local elephants have learned to find it for themselves by tapping into the local water supply pipelines.  They are strong enough to lift off the concrete covers, and dextrous enough to turn the purging valves with their trunks.  These photos were taken along the roadside between Phuduhudu and Gweta.  The elephants are seemed unconcerned about the drivers stopping to watch them.

Graeme

April 2024

Exploring the Magic of Botswana in February: A Self Drive Adventure

February marks the height of summer in Botswana, a time when the wilderness comes alive with vibrant colors, abundant wildlife, and thrilling adventures waiting to be discovered. As the sun casts its golden glow over the savannah and the rivers flow with life-giving water, there’s no better time to embark on a self-drive safari through this untamed paradise. Join us as we delve into the magic of Botswana in February and uncover the wonders that await around every corner.

The Okavango Delta is a jewel in Botswana’s crown, and in February, it reaches its peak as floodwaters from the Angolan highlands transform the landscape into a lush oasis teeming with life. Navigate the labyrinth of water channels in a traditional mokoro (dugout canoe), keeping an eye out for hippos, crocodiles, and a dazzling array of birdlife. Camp under the star-studded African sky on remote islands, surrounded by the sounds of the bush and the gentle lapping of water against the reeds.

Naomi

February 2024

Mmakodu National Monument

At first glance just another large baobab tree, providing welcome shade on a hot day.   But this one is is at the Mmakodu National Monument, at the SE end of the Tswapong Hills.  Thirteen hundred years ago people were smelting iron here.  Working the bellows of a forced draft furnace is hot work, and they appreciated the shade of these baobabs too.  Pieces of banded ironstone ore, slag, and clay tuyere pipe litter the ground.

The Batswapong people were trading iron and steel objects over a wide area right up to historical times.  An interesting place to visit.

Graeme

January 2024

A touch of Sophistication

Quite a few people back in New Zealand ask me what is it like living in Botswana and what do I miss the most. That is a hard question and some obvious answers re family and friends but living out in the bush not far from Palapye I would describe life as unsophisticated. Sure we have the mod cons that go with water , sewerage and electricity  but the long macchiato is not on offer, good blue cheese is hard to find etc.  

However, the everyday interactions with locals makes up for it and every so often we can get a touch of sophistication with a weekend in Gaborone going to a wonderful Saturday afternoon jazz concert, great food at a stunning outdoor restaurant in the bush and then the next day a wine over looking the Gaborone Dam at the yacht club as the sun sets.  

I saw a sign at a local café today that said ‘what can be more luxurious than a sofa, a glass of wine and good music’  .… how true 

And every picture tells a story  

Dinner in the bush and no Warthog is not the special on the menu! 

Smoked Malva pudding delicious! 

As the sun sets over the dam  

Gillian

December 2023

Botswana’s beautiful Sunset!

This has to be one of Botswana’s most mesmerizing features that everyone can enjoy while you’re here. For starters it’s free!, and can be enjoyed just about anywhere. This particular picture was taken at Kasane Self Catering Apartments. They have a platform with a picnic table and chairs. You can enjoy sitting here for hours on end watching the boats go with a nice nice cold drink after a long day of travel

Peo

November 2023

The Kolobeng River

It is the very end of the dry season in Botswana. In 10 days or so the first rains will arrive. Here in the village of Manyana the last rains were back in April. But the Kolobeng River, springfed, is still flowing.

The never-ending flow of water led Dr David Livingstone to establish his mission station alongside the river in 1847.  The very first mission station in Botswana, now preserved as a national monument.  It is a few kilometres upstream. 

Here in Manyana village he conducted weekly clinics and church services under a giant fig tree, a tree which is still standing.  

This is a peaceful backwater of Botswana which sees very few tourists, but it is a great place for both hikers and history buffs, and Gillian and I really enjoyed our visit. 

Graeme

October 2023

The Festive Season has finally begun

While in other countries in this part of the world, the festive season starts around late November through to early January. It’s a season that is centered around Christmas and New Years. But in Botswana, the season starts on the 30 of September, Independence day, a rather fitting day for it to start really!. It’s a time of jubilation in all respects, right through to January. It’s the day we all consider as the beginning of the rainy season, a day that all farmers have marked out in their calendars. And the beginning of the wedding season. The Department of Civil and National Registration office in Palapye has recorded high volumes of marriage registration between the months of October and January. An odd time to plan such an event since it’s the hottest months and there is a high chance of rain. But I believe it’s the spirit of jubilation in the air that makes people want to celebrate their special day during this time.

Peo

September 2023

Victoria Falls!

Peo and I recently took a trip out to the Victoria Falls. We were fortunate enough to visit both the Zambian and Zimbabwean side and I must say, no matter which side you look at it from, its one of the most breathtaking sites I have ever seen. We had a lovely time on our trip there and I would recommend this to anyone traveling to these parts of the world. Absolutely incredible!

Naomi

August 2023

Climbing the Highest Hill in Botswana!

For anyone who likes to tick off the highest peak in each country Botswana is a bit of a challenge.  There are several hills which lay claim to being the highest in the country. They are all very close in altitude; and the reported heights vary from map to map.  Google Earth is no help here as the differences in elevation are within the margin of error of its estimates.  But the hill shown on my map as the very highest is Monanalong Hill at 1503 m.

From a distance this looks like an easy hill to climb.  Just a walk really.  In practice thick, thorny scrub and loose basalt cobbles underfoot make the going a bit difficult. Kudu have made trails but they are mostly going across rather than up and down the slope.

Did I reach the summit ?    The top of the hill is relatively flat and covered with bushes and trees so it is  hard to know. But I’ve ticked  it off my list regardless !

Graeme

June 2023

The C.L. Woolcott Vulture Restaurant

I really like watching birds.  So it’s perhaps no surprise that one of my favourite places near Ghanzi is the C.L. Woolcott Vulture Restaurant.  It’s part of the game reserve at the Thakadu Bush Lodge, and dedicated to the memory of the late Chris Woolcott, who farmed here for many years and was an avid supporter of vulture conservation. 

The restaurant itself is simple enough.  It’s a clearing in the bush, surrounded by tall trees.  Livestock which have met their end on the A3 highway are scraped off the roadside and dumped in the clearing, providing a ready meal for the white-backed and lappet-faced vultures which breed in the area.  The carcasses also attract marabou storks, brown hyaena and other scavengers. 

For the human visitors there is an underground concrete bunker.  Eye level slits provide a great view of the action and the possibility of some amazing close-up photos.  The interior walls are covered with vulture fun facts and wisdom to entertain the children.

Definitely THE place to be in Ghanzi.

Graeme

March 21 2023

The only way is up!

Botswana has a lot of hills that offer great views and an excellent opportunity for exercise. In my opinion, you can get that out of any hill anywhere in the world. Hills with interesting stories behind them make it all the more worthwhile. Like the Eastern Hills of Botswana, specifically the ones located in the Shoshong area. There is so much history that can be found here. Old boreholes, burial sites, old churches, and their bells, even Zulu beads growing free on top of the hills. And YES, the views are epic but don’t take my word for it, try it. For only USD5 for a guide it’s absolutely worth it.

Peo

February 26 2023

Summer in the Okavango Delta

Most tourists visit the Okavango Delta during the winter. In winter the swamps and rivers are full of water, which is flowing down from the highlands of Angola.  During the summer the Delta dries up.  Not completely, because summer is our rainy season.  But the floodplains and swamps that would be underwater in the main tourist season become a vast expanse of lush grassland.

This summer Gillian and I took our holiday in the Delta, staying at Oddballs Camp.  We arrived by light plane.  The pilot had to make several passes to encourage an elephant to move off the airstrip.  (The same elephant later came to visit us at our tent – it takes a proprietary interest in the place and likes to check out new arrivals).  When we left there was a pack of African wild dogs on the runway to see us off.  So no complaints about the wildlife viewing !

People often ask us what the Delta is like in the off-season, and now we know.  There are baby animals galore, taking advantage of all the greenery.  The bird life is prolific.  All the summer migrants are here. You can walk everywhere – no need for a dugout canoe.  And it is really, really quiet.  We were the only guests and had the camp to ourselves. 

A great start to 2023!

Graeme

January 17 2023

The Kolobeng River

It is the very end of the dry season in Botswana.  In 10 days or so the first rains will arrive.  Here in the village of Manyana the last rains were back in April.  But the Kolobeng River, springfed, is still flowing.

The never-ending flow of water led Dr David Livingstone to establish his mission station alongside the river in 1847.  The very first mission station in Botswana, now preserved as a national monument.  It is a few kilometres upstream.

Here in Manyana village he conducted weekly clinics and church services under a giant fig tree, a tree which is still standing. 

This is a peaceful backwater of Botswana which sees very few tourists, but it is a great place for both hikers and history buffs, and Gillian and I really enjoyed our visit.

Graeme

December 23 2022

On Tracks

It’s the off season for self-drive tourists. So we have time to do a little work on our Tswapong Trails project.  

The Tswapong Hills are criss-crossed with old foot tracks.  These were once the only way to get from village to village.  Nowadays most use the tarred roads even though these take the long way round.  But the old tracks are a great recreational resource for hikers.

So we are doing our bit to keep them open.  Right now we are working on a 9 km self-guiding trail, with numbered stops about every 10 minutes along the way.  There are porcupine warrens; hyaena and aardvark burrows; the anvil stones used by the local baboons to break into the hard shelled mogwagwa fruits; a viewpoint over the Lotsane floodplain; and a lot of interesting trees.  Reflective markers mean that you can walk it at night if you want to experience the sounds of the forest at night.

A walk in the hills is part of the tourist offering at Segaigai Farm, but the old foot tracks are available for everyone.  Come and walk one of them if you are passing !

Graeme

November 13 2022

The road less travelled

While the north of Botswana is rich with wildlife and luxury lodges there are other parts that seem more remote and offer great wildlife viewing just driving along the road. We recently travelled to the Tuli block for a weekend camping by the side of the Limpopo River. We were at a rustic campsite within a game reserve. We hardly noticed the fact that there was no electricity with hurricane lamps in the individual ablutions and water heated for you by a ‘donkey’. On the way down to our campsite we came upon a waterhole with about 25 elephants drinking and bathing. It was wonderful to watch the orderly way in which they accessed the clean drinking water in turn then went off to dust or water bathe, from tiny babies to the matriarch. At our campsite we could see hippos in the water not far away and were visited by a couple of bushbucks. It was a great location to sit and watch birds around the campsite and in the trees across the river in South Africa. Other animals we saw as we drove around the reserve and along the roadside included zebra, warthog, eland, hyrax, vervet monkeys, baboons, giraffe, impala, kudu, wildebeest, klipspringer, springhare, hyena and banded mongoose. Our campsite cost less than $20US/ night for the two of us and the rich wildlife viewing was free. Who said Botswana was an expensive place to visit?

Gillian

24 September 2022

My favorite place in Botswana

It’s no secret I love animals, and up there with dogs are elephants for me. I’ve had the pleasure of being to Elephant Sands a few times and it’s amazing every single time. This is a must visit whilst in Botswana!

Naomi

19 August 2022

A unique Christmas Brunch

Being home in Kalamare is always so different. Our house there has always been like a holiday home, a place to go to get away from our “normal” lives. When we are there we kind of become different people. We break away from the chains of the busy town life and just go back to basics, and we LOVE IT! 

One thing that is always a must is cooking outside on the fire. There is always a fire going. From the morning when we boil water for bathing to late at night when we sit around the fire and tell stories while sipping on some smokey tea brewed on the fire. So naturally, we always find an excuse to stay outside and prepare breakfast, lunch, and supper outside! 

My sister was craving my magwinya (ma-g-wi-n-ya), so I agreed to indulge her cravings and make some only if she made the side dish. Magwinya are fat cakes, they are prepared the same as doughnuts, without sprinkles and chocolate dip. They are very popular in Botswana. Most people enjoy having them with tea for breakfast, but you can enjoy them with a stew or soup as well.

My family enjoys my magwinya, It has become my signature dish! But I usually prepare them on a stove so cooking them on an open fire was going to be a first for me. First, I prepared the dough. I mixed flour, sugar, salt, and dry yeast together. The secret of good magwinya is in the dough. It’s important to get the right consistency with the dough. After letting it sit in the sun for about 30 minutes I started the fire. I put oil in a cast-iron pot. Once the oil was hot enough then it is time to cook. 

I was really nervous about cooking on an open fire, I was worried about how I would be able to control the heat. It is easy enough to do on a stove, but on an open fire, that’s another story. But I handled it like a pro if I have to say to myself. As expected, as soon as the smell of the magwinya filled the yard, my family started to come closer to wait for the first round to come out. Like a pack of hungry hyenas waiting for a pack of lions to be done with a carcass so that they can have their turn! 

In the meantime, my sister was busy cooking some goat seswaa (se-s-waa) and spinach that she picked from my fathers’ garden. Seswaa is pounded meat. It is cooked in a pot with water and salt. Cooked until it is falling off the bone and pounded with a wooden spoon.  

This was a uniques lunch because a typical Christmas lunch is the usual 7 colours. A meal with different starches, meat dishes, and salads of different colours. This was a simple meal, prepared around the fire. As good as the meal was, I think the company of my family, all sitting there, enjoying each others company made it even more special!

Peo

1 July 2022

The Dikate Hills

Something that has always intrigued me in Botswana is the number of archaeological sites found on hilltops.  

The first Bantu peoples to arrive here about 1400 years ago preferred to live on hills.  They were herdsmen.  A hill with rocky ramparts and a flat top was a good place to keep your livestock at nights, easily defended against predators and cattle thieves.  A hilltop also provides cooling breezes; a commanding view of your surroundings; and some relief from mosquitoes during the rainy season.  The very best hills would be surrounded by cliffs and have just one possible route to the summit plateau.  A promising hilI might be occupied for a thousand years, and one telltale sign of past occupation is the deep and very rich soil on the plateau and the characteristic assemblage of plants that grow in it.   

Occupied hills also seem to have a lot of fruiting trees associated with them.  The Bantu peoples certainly knew about horticulture, but whether the trees were deliberately planted or simply grew from discarded seeds is hard to know. 

The Dikalate Hills are about 15 km from the A1 highway at Topisi, and accessible by 2×4 car.  But they feel like they are in the middle of nowhere.  The view from the top can’t have changed much in the last millennium

The first photo below shows the Child Hill, viewed from the Female Hill.  Both were occupied in prehistoric times.  The tree in the foreground is a small-leaved rock fig, Ficus tettensis.  The fruits are delicious.

The second photo shows the view to the south from the summit of the Female Hill.  Strange that in Botswana some hills have gender !  There is an old trail along the foot of the hills in the distance. Great country for hiking ….

Graeme

23 June 2022

A Day out at the Yacht Club

One of the places you absolutely have to visit if you’re in Gaborone. Beautiful views of the Gaborone Dam!

Naomi

15 May 2022

An abandoned house in Lephephe wells

There is a lot of history in Botswana. The sparse population and the dry climate means that many buildings are still standing, unused, a century after they were abandoned. Standing mute, just waiting for their stories to be told.

This is the remains of one of them, in the tiny village of Lephephe Wells.  Lephephe Wells was a bustling place for a few decades in the latter half of the 19^th Century.  It was an important stop on the ‘Missionary’ road to the north: a place where travelers could rest, have their wagon repaired, and restock with water and provisions before moving on to the huge village of Shoshong and then striking out into the unknown.

Missionaries, traders, big game hunters, gold seekers and adventurers all passed this way.   Famous names such as David Livingstone, Robert Moffat, Emil Holub and George Gordon-Cumming. 

But the missionary road lost its importance in 1889 when Khama III and his people abandoned Shoshong in favour of Old Palapye, a long way to the east.   And when the Cape to Cairo Railroad reached Palapye Road in 1896 Lephephe Wells was far from the line of rail.  By 1900 the traders, wheelwrights, blacksmiths and hoteliers had all gone.  But the stories remain…….

If you want to visit Lephephe Wells, or the neighbouring villages of Sojwe and Hatsalatladi we can get you there, and our guide notes will pass on some of the stories.

Graeme

April 26 2022

Cooking mapakiwa with dad

My dad has been retired for the past 7 years. When he retired he stuck around for a while in Palapye, but then later decided that there really was nothing for him to do in Palapye. So he packed his bags and moved back to his home village, Kalamare. Kalamare is a small village situated amongst the eastern hills of Botswana. His new life now is taking care of the house and his vegetable garden at Kalamare and visiting his cattle post from time to time.

I try my best to visit him as often as I can. When I’m there we try to spend as much time together as possible doing things together. We go for walks, we share meals together and do some gardening together. On this particular visit, I had promised to show him how to cook mapakiwa (ma-pa-kee-wa). These are Setswana bread rolls. People generally cook them in an oven but the best way in my opinion is outside on the fire.

My father had already collected firewood, so as he made the fire, I started making the dough. It’s a simple mixture of flour, water, yeast, salt, and sugar. Some people (aka my mother), prefer to use baking powder as a raising agent, but I am more comfortable using yeast. Once the dough has raised, into the pot it goes! You cook it with coal. We put coal under the pot and on top of the pot. You have to keep controlling the temperature so that it doesn’t burn. So we sat outside under the stars and had a lovely chat while we waited for the bread.

Once the bread was almost done, we brewed some tea over the fire and had it with our bread. A wonderful combination if I have to say so myself!

Peo

March 23 2022

Valentine’s Day

A lazy Sunday afternoon at CNS, Palapye, enjoying their traditional game meat and lerotse sorghum with a wine while listening to Trinity Mpho as a pre-Valentines Day celebration.

Gillian

February 14 2022

‘Madombi Le Nama’

Dumplings and Beef, one of Botswana’s most loved dishes. Today we indulged in the national delicacy with the troops. For me, it’s definitely up there in my top choices for any meal, I would happily eat this for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Count me in!

Naomi

January 18 2022

The Beauty of the Rainy Season

Right now in Botswana it’s the rainy season. Everyone gets excited when it rains.  After months of no rain everything is dry and dusty. The first rains signal the ploughing season and crops are planted. I love this time as the bush turns from bare branches to lush green in a matter of days such that you feel you are in a slow motion David Attenborough documentary. Wild flowers begin to pop up everywhere as pictured below. And the rain cools things down from the searing heat.

Gillian

December 7 2021

A fun run in a game farm!

‘Whatever you do, don’t run’ is the advice always given to visitors to the big national parks in Botswana.  Even Usain Bolt couldn’t outrun a lion, and running  makes you an inviting target for a chase.  So going jogging or cycling in the big national parks of Botswana would be foolhardy, and there are only a few spots where you are allowed out of your vehicle.

But everyone in Botswana bis fond of wildlife, and many of us also like to exercise.  Kenmoir Game Farm, just outside Gaborone, is one place where you can watch wildlife and take exercise at the same time.  They have a farm run every Saturday where you can run on one of three trails – 5.5; 12.5 and 21.7 km.  The 21.7 km trail is also open to cyclists.  In these days of Covid-19 the only race is against the clock, but who cares about times if you come across a business of banded mongoose or a herd of wildebeest ?  

Kenmoir Farm is not on the standard tourist circuit.  It caters mostly to locals.  But if you are going to be in Gaborone on a Saturday morning this is a great way to spend some time, and tourists are welcome to join in.

I’ve borrowed these pictures of Kenmoir Farm from their website.  The site also gives you the directions of how to get there, some downloadable GPX files to help you navigate the longer courses, and posts the times to beat.  Entry is limited to control numbers and you have to register in advance, which you can do online here   https://www.thetrail.run/virtual-races/.

Graeme

December 5 2021

The Great Outdoors!

One of the things we enjoy about running this company is that it provides an excuse to get out in the great outdoors.  There have always been plenty of opportunities for this in Botswana, but when I was a university academic it was often hard to make the time.  Now I have to do it to check out the opportunities available to our clients.

This image was taken from the flanks of the female Swaneng Hill near Serowe.  You can see the male Swaneng Hill in the background.  The flat top of the male Swaneng hill was fortified by the Tsweneng tribe, who gave the hills these names.  The plant that looks a bit like a cactus in the foreground is a ‘Transvaal Candelabra’, a species of Euphorbia.

 I lived in Serowe for a year, but never found time to climb the hill and look at the fort.   Always too many things to do for and with my students. But I finally ticked this one off last week, and now there is a guide note waiting for any clients who want to follow in my footsteps…

Graeme

August 11 2021

Welcome to Our Office!

Welcome to the home of DIY self drive tours. This is our office and it is based in the charming town of  Palapye, Botswana. Palapye holds a very special place in all of our hearts and it is here that most of the team reside. The 68 sqm structure sits on a farm located at the foot of the Tswapong hills which makes for a lovely view from the office. This structure is made entirely out of timber, it has  wooden pine floors and walls made from rhino board. Construction of the office started in early May of 2021 and was completed three weeks later. 

While it’s still under construction and still needs to undergo some more painting(done by us) as well as fittings here and there,  we hope our vision and ideas for the space will  come together nicely and this will be where we run our day to day operations for DIY.

Naomi

August 12 2021

Look who we found!

This cutie is a Western Stripe-Bellied Sand Snake, Psammophis subtaeniatus. They are typically found in pairs.  A pair will travel everywhere together and share a burrow.  Our friend Clement says that in his part of Zimbabwe these snakes are venerated as ancestors, and must not be touched or harmed in any way.  I haven’t the heart to tell him that many of these snakes have historically been captured and shipped from southern Africa to Europe as terrarium pets.  Perhaps something he wouldn’t really want to know.

This snake was in a mopane tree on the track between our house and the company office, side by side with his mate.  I ran back to the house to get a camera, but on my return the female was heading back down their hole at the base of the tree.  Only the male stayed on to be photographed.

If I manage to get a photo of them together next time I will post it here.

These snakes are completely harmless and it is nice to have them around.

Graeme

August 11 2021